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How to Fix a Leaking Maytag Washer

Maytag repairman

All About Maytag Washers: More Than You Ever Wanted to Know

Maytag and its parent company Whirlpool make two types of washers: top-loaders and front-loaders, each requiring a different troubleshooting approach if those washers begin to leak.

Because Whirlpool owns Maytag and manufactures both brands in the same factories, maintenance, troubleshooting, and repair are almost identical for both product lines.

If you already know how to fix a Whirlpool washer, your mission is complete. You can get that Maytag washer up and running without our help.

Otherwise, read on, or better yet, call West Coast Chief Repair. What seems like an obvious DIY repair to us may not seem so “DIY” to a novice.

 

 

The Maytag Repairman: Loneliest Guy in Town

Jesse White starred as the Maytag repairman, “the loneliest guy in town” because no one ever called him. Maytag ran those TV commercials from 1967 to 1988 and built a brand based on reliability.

Today, Maytag remains a trusted brand, but heavy use can wear down even the best appliances. Even your trusty Maytag! The average American family washes 7.4 loads per week or about 50 pounds of laundry! It translates to a lot of spin cycles.

A pool of water under the washer is never a welcome sight — that’s not where the water belongs!

But a simple adjustment might fix a leak that seems catastrophic at first, and for anything else, call West Coast Chief. We offer same-day appliance repair.

Our Handy Troubleshooting Checklist for Maytag Washer Leaks

  • Before attempting any electrical appliance repair (not just washers), unplug the appliance. Please.
  • Turn off inlets or isolation valves for the hoses.

Leaks Common to Top & Bottom-Loading Washers

The first order of business is to find the leak. Is it coming from inside or outside the washer?

All washing machines need a way for the water to get in and out. In most cases, inlet and outlet hoses serve the purpose.

Most washers have two inlet hoses — one for hot water and one for cold. All washers use a single outlet hose.

Some washers are cold-fed, meaning that they need only a cold water source because they’re equipped with internal water heaters.

All the abovementioned hoses can be a source of leaks!

  • Inspect the hoses from the back of the washer to the plumbing pipes.
  • If a hose has sprung a leak or its connectors are damaged, you’ll need to replace it.
  • If a connector at either end of the hose is leaking, tightening the connector and resealing the thread with Teflon tape may work.
  • As long as you’ve disconnected the hoses, replace their connector washers to prevent future leaks. Yeah, washers — the synthetic rubber kind — can wear out too.
  • The washer drains through a length of flexible hosing, which usually has a “shepherd’s crook” at the end.
  • This hose can become blocked, loose, or split. The pipe it empties into can clog as well.
  • Refasten all the hoses, plug your Maytag washer in, turn it on, and stand back and observe as it goes through its cycles. Tighten or replace any hose or connector that continues to leak.
  • Some washers empty into a drain. A slow or backed-up drain could also be causing the puddle.

Check the Washer for Overfilling

There may be a malfunction in your washer’s water valve, water level control, or water level hose. This simple test will help you pinpoint the trouble.

  • Set the washer to its lowest water level and power it on.
  • Move the water setting to the next level when the water flow stops. Repeat the process until the washer is full.
  • Unplug the washer if the water level rises past full.
  • Shut off your washer’s water supply if the water continues to rise. You’ll need to replace the water valve.
  • If the water flow stops after you unplug your washer, the water level control or hose is causing the problem. Check these parts for clogs and replace them if necessary.

Troubleshooting a Top-Loading Washer

Improper use can lead to leaks.

  • Make sure you’re following Maytag’s manufacturer instructions.
  • Verify that you didn’t misuse the washer during your last wash cycle.
  • Some common causes of leaking include too much detergent in the machine, overloading the washer, or an unbalanced load.
  • High efficiency (HE) machines require HE detergent. The wrong detergent can create an overflow that masquerades as a leak but is nothing more than human error.

Take a peek inside.

Most top-loading washers have a removable front panel. You may be able to pry it off with a putty knife unless it’s screwed into place.

Soapy water will leave telltale signs. Here’s where you go full CSI to trace its origin. Look for:

  • Splash marks.
  • Corrosion patches.
  • Residue build-up.
  • Wet spots.

Check hoses for splits and broken clips. Inspect gaskets around seals and the agitator post, and examine the pump housing. Most of these parts are easy to replace if you can access them.

A washing machine has two main units: the basket, which holds your clothes, and the tub sitting below it.

  • A tub seal prevents the tub from leaking during a wash cycle. It sits under the agitator, just above the transmission.
  • You’ll need to remove the entire tub to replace the seal, in which case we don’t recommend a DIY repair. Call us instead.

 

 

The drain pump is another potential problem. As the name suggests, this device pumps water out of your washer and into the drain hose.

  • Soapy water on the floor could indicate that the drain pump is defective. The soapy leak will always occur at the end of a wash cycle.
  • Check the drain pump for cracks or worn bearings. Replace it if you find signs of damage.

Troubleshooting a Front-Loading Washer

Access to potentially troublesome parts is tougher with a front-loading machine — sometimes by removing the lid and sometimes by tilting the entire washer and going in from underneath.

Once in, the troubleshooting steps are similar to troubleshooting a top-loading washer. An easy way to identify the source of the leak is to place a piece of cardboard under the machine and follow the drip trail.

There are three other possible leak points you get only with front-loaders.

The Soap Dispenser

  • The soap dispenser can get jammed or blocked.
  • Remove it, wash it carefully, and check it for damage.
  • Make sure moving parts haven’t seized or stuck.
  • Usually, cleaning the soap dispenser will do the trick, but you may have to replace it.

The Washer Door

  • A residue of fluff and congealed soap can collect at the bottom of the glass door, preventing it from sealing.
  • Clean it with warm water. It may need a good soaking first, but it should come off easily.

The Door Seal

  • Splits or tears can develop in the rubber collar that seals the drum to the machine’s chassis.
  • Replace the seal if it’s damaged.
  • You can reuse the seal clip. Remove it with care.

When All Else Fails, Call West Coast Chief Repair

Easy-peasy DIY washer fixes, right? Replacing a soap dish is one thing, but most of our customers aren’t comfortable working with things mechanical or electrical components, which is why they call us for same-day repair.

With leaks coming from hoses and soap dishes, troubleshooting a Maytag, Whirlpool, or another washer is a simple affair. But there’s a reason why we’ve been in business as long as we have.

The average person lacks the tools, expertise, and time for many washing machine repairs. Sometimes the best DIY action is to call that number on your screen and invite the appliance experts to your home. All estimates are free.

 

 

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